Comfort Food

December 22, 2008

A few food vendors pass by our office daily, selling their homemade food door-to-door, but the Nam Pachok lady is my favorite.  Nam Pachok is a delicious fish curry soup that’s made with lemongrass and coconut milk.  She carries all the ingredients, including bowls, chopsticks and condiments on her shoulders as she walks down the street.  My mouth watered as she garnished my bowl with bean sprouts, cabbage, cucumber, banana blossom and mint.  Next she layered in some fresh Khmer noodle before ladling in the soup.  She waited patiently as we all finished eating since she needed the bowls back.  I didn’t eat fast enough because eventually she couldn’t wait for me so Miss Kim, our receptionist, gave her one of the bowls in our office kitchen in exchange.  This is definitely one my favorite comfort food of all time.  Delicious.

Where is the fish?

December 20, 2008

Today in class I read Taro Gomi’s beautifully illustrated “Where’s the Fish?”  I would ask, “Where’s the fish?” and then say, “There’s the fish.”  As a class we repeated these two sentences as we drew fish and other colorful animals.

 

 

Wheres the fish?

Where's the fish?

 

 

 

Theres the fish.

There's the fish.

Soksabay

December 18, 2008

Soksabay from Phnom Penh.  I can’t believe December is ending soon!  Where did the time go?  Next month I leave beautiful Cambodia and it feels that there is still so much work to do here.  

I’m not sure why I am not inspired to write while living in Phnom Penh. So many experiences in such little time and I don’t want to forget about any of them yet I don’t feel the urgency to document them.  

I still teach daily at the head office located in the heart of Phnom Penh.  It’s the travel to the communities that I enjoy most.  I’ve been teaching in two of  the slum communities for CVCD twice a week.  The two classes from 8:30-10:30 am go by quickly.   I will travel with a staff member or teacher by moto to the classroom for about 30 minutes from the city.  The kids look much younger than they really are because of malnutrition.  The 14-year olds look like they are only eight.  But they have the same laughter and enthusiasm as any child I know.  

Some kids will ask me to write down the word for them but I encourage them to watch me as I write the words on the white board.  At the other end of that spectrum are some kids who refuse help.  They really are independent and prefer to do the work on their own.

Yesterday, Mr. Pheak and I drove to a slum community by the railroad tracks near our head office, crossing the bridge on Russian Boulevard.  The Khmer teacher who teaches there sat and became our student as we, Mr. Pheak and I, co-taught English for an hour.  The classroom was not designed to fit the 30+ kids that attend.  I watched as they brought in stools from their homes to sit in the back.  Parents and young kids crowded each other in the doorway and window to watch.   A man came in drunk and asked us for $2 but we asked him to leave and we locked the wooden door by lowering the tiny wooden latch.

We asked some kids to come to the front of the classroom and they practiced simple conversation.  How are you?  What is your name?  How old are you?  For some kids this was a difficult exercise in pronunciation so it was good practice.  As a game, I wrote the phrase on the board and called out words such as “name” and “what” to see who would be the first one to point the word out.  Lots of volunteers for that exercise.

As we left the community, I saw a few of the same kids helping their parents selling used clothing or petrol in pepsi bottles on the side of the road.

At the Cafe

December 8, 2008

Currently Reading

Currently Reading

“Bong, som kut loy.”  So now I can ask for the bill in Khmer.  I can also order an iced coffee with milk.  ”Cafe tuk d’koh tkaw.” 

I was at T & C cafe with V discussing the plot of The King’s Last Song.  It’s an amazing story that takes place during the present and also flashes back to King Jayavarman VII’s time.  V already knew about the history of Jayavarman’s accomplishments so it was great to hear his view.  I don’t want the story to end but at this rate, I’m going to finish tomorrow.  Actually I’m skimming through the present stuff since going back in time is so much more interesting.  Why are the steps at Angkor Wat so dang steep?  The book gives a theory as to why.

Online Journaling

November 19, 2008

I’ve been working with some staff on WordPress.  Today, Mr. Kosal, Mr. Sama (pictured below on the Mac), Mr. Ratha and I met to talk about ourselves.  I asked them to tell me a little about themselves.  Please read more about them on their blogs.

 

Online Journaling

Online Journaling

 

Mr. Sama, our rice mill project manager, has published his blog.  Please feel free to comment:  http://mrsama.wordpress.com/

Mr. Rotha’s blog is a beautiful view of Phnom Penh and can be found here: http://beautifulview.wordpress.com/

Characteristics

November 5, 2008

Obama vs McCain?

I asked one of my co-workers who he liked better. Presidential candidate Obama or McCain? The video was taken on October 28, 2008.

Word of the Day

October 31, 2008

Stumbled upon a “library” and found a cool English/French/Khmer dictionary.

Greetings!

October 29, 2008

Sak sa bye from Phnom Penh.  Today is a public holiday (King’s Coronation Day) so I am enjoying my day-off at a coffee shop.  I am online catching up with email, news and updates. 

Yesterday Mr. Sarath, CVCD director, and I met with John, founder of MatesAbroad, a great supporter and contributor of CVCD.

We traveled to five community schools built by CVCD to speak with the teachers to discuss student progress and also to get their ideas on how they could improve learning and living conditions for the community.   

None of the schools have electricity.  The teacher and students work by the natural sunlight that enters through the windows.  There are wooden chairs attached to wooden desks, white boards, posters, and a small library in the back of each classroom.  We visited one classroom equipped with electricity since it’s the computer learning class but the power was down while we were there.  Mr. Sarath mentioned that they are working on a generator for that class.

Electricity is expensive in Phnom Penh.  At the home where I live, the electricity has been turned off occasionally after 8 pm.  This lasts anywhere from 15 to 45 minutes.  Thank goodness for my book light, not to mention my books!

Normally, Miss Thida, the CVCD receptionist will pick me up on her moto.  My duties at the CVCD organization include practicing English conversation with staff, updating computer tutorials (Thanks Mr. Westfall!), and working with Mr. Sarath in accounting work.  On Monday I sat with project managers, Mr. Sama and Mr. Kosal, and showed them how to create an online journal on WordPress.  I’ll give you an update when we finish with that.

It’s almost noon.  Soon, I’ll be walking to a friend’s home for lunch.  I used to pay $1 for a moto ride but find that it’s actually close enough to walk.  From the café it will take me about 15 minutes to reach my friend’s home.  One thing I will never take for granted is sidewalks.  It’s difficult to walk here alongside all the motos and vehicles but I manage.  Pedestrians don’t have the right of way here. 

Here’s a slideshow of videos and photos that I took yesterday during our visit with the community schools.

Hope all is well!

Returning to Cambodia

September 15, 2008

  kandal province kidskandal province kids

How do I begin?  I’ve been thinking about returning to Cambodia to teach ever since visiting last November.  I was forever changed by my experience there in a way I would have never expected. It’s different to hear about poverty than it is to see it.  (Notice the Neak Ta, or guardian spirit, behind us. The Neak Ta is housed in a sort of pagoda and serves as a protector for the village.) 

 

kandal province home

kandal province home

On my visit to Cambodia last November, I visited Kandal Province, which is less than an hour by ferry boat from Phnom Penh.  Many homes sat on stilts with no running water or electricity. 

 

games

games

The children didn’t beg for money here like they did in Siem Reap because it’s a road not often traveled by tourists.  Instead I observed lots of kids laughing and playing with paper cups and stones and kicking their rubber slippers about as if their slippers were rubber balls.  My friend explained to me that it was a traditional Khmer game but I don’t remember the rules of it. I’ll have to ask about it when I return.    

I don’t really know how to explain it but something about this place calls me to share what I know with them.  I’d like to teach English and computer skills to students who are willing to learn from me.  I’ve been in contact with other volunteers from the US and the UK and they’ve mentioned that I will most likely get placed in a high school classroom since there is usually one or two students at that level who understand English.  I would love to be in a classroom for the lower grades but I can’t picture myself teaching that level since I can’t speak Khmer and they wouldn’t understand English.  

I researched quite a few NGO’s (Non-Governmental Organizations) and have found the CVCD (Cambodian Volunteers for Community Development) to be very reputable.  It’s a volunteer position so it does not pay.  Some NGO’s supply a bicycle to help you commute from your local home to the classroom. 

I’ll be returning to Cambodia in a few weeks to teach from October to January for four months.  I’ll be on leave from work without pay or benefits for four months. As for health insurance?  I’ll be paying my employer’s portion so I don’t lose coverage.  I have savings that will allow me to leave my job for about four months.  

I’ve written the One Laptop Per Child organization in hopes of a donation for some laptops but they will only match a donation of several hundred laptops, not just a few laptops as I inquired.

I look forward to working for a short time in Cambodia.  Even with all that has happened in Cambodia’s past, this beautiful country seems to be waking up, catching up with the rest of the world, one step at a time.

Phnom Penh

November 18, 2007

Phnom Penh Sunrise

Farewell my dear Phnom Penh. I didn’t think I would like Phnom Penh on my first impression.  I enjoyed the small town scenery along the roads to Siem Reap and Battambang and didn’t care much for the congested city streets of Cambodia’s capital.  But it turns out that I will miss Phnom Penh the most of all the towns I have seen in Cambodia.  She was the first to greet me and the last to see me as I departed this beautiful land. 

Airport Security

Warning to those who plan to visit Cambodia: This vicious dog is trained to attack so be careful!  Actually the airport personnel were so friendly.  They wondered why I was leaving so soon and even suggested that I should have stayed longer.  

I will miss my friends who welcomed me: Dav, Sam, Mab, Namy, Kunthea, Vir, Sam, Cham and Ly. Thank you for so much.

Until we meet again.

Phnom Penh Geek

November 17, 2007

At the Royal Palace I came across this monk with the most beautiful smile and I couldn’t resist asking his permission to take his photo. I never expected the words that would soon follow.

May I take your photo?
Yes, but will you promise to email it to me?
Do you have email?
Yes, I am on yahoo. And you?

Alright I don’t get out much obviously. I didn’t know monks were up to date on email and the internet. Now I know.

Apsara In Training

November 16, 2007

After watching dance practice at Sovanna Phum, I asked my friends if we could go to a dance school that I had read about before arriving in Cambodia. This school trained young children in the very old classical Khmer dance.

The graceful hand gestures remind me of the Hawaiian style of dance, where the hands tell a story.

I fell in love with this little dancer immediately!  (Photos of me by Vir)

Keep your eyes on the hands

November 16, 2007

    


Traditional Khmer classical dance incorporates hand gestures that represent different things from nature such as a tree or its leaves or even its flower blossoms. The way in which dancers present their dance and the position of the their hand, arm and even feet affect the meaning of the song and dance.

I told my friends that I wished to see a local dance group so we stopped by the Sovanna Phum Art Center in Phnom Penh. The dancers were practicing for a performance for the next evening.

It was stunning to watch them mix traditional Khmer hand movements with modern dance. Amazing. I captured a few minutes on video so enjoy!

Meta House Art Gallery

November 15, 2007

Namy and I hopped on her moto and decided to check out the art work at the META HOUSE, which is a three-story art gallery.  This little art house supports Cambodian artists and promotes the development of contemporary art in Cambodia.  More info on their site @ Meta-House.com

 

These are the steps that lead to a roof-top movie theater which was playing a German film tonight.  Sorry the photos are so dark.  I don’t like to use flash in a gallery and I’m still learning how to adjust the setting on my camera.

Breakdown

November 15, 2007

bus

The road between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap is smooth compared to the bumpy road to Battambang. For $10 USD on the air-conditioned Mekong Express bus, you get two pastries, a cola and a local tour guide that is called a tour guide because he stands up to announce the town you are about to approach. That’s it. Not the usual, “This town is known for…” More like, “Ladies and gentlemen, we are about to pass Kampong Cham province. Thank you.” I boarded the Mekong Express from Phnom Penh and was seated with quite a few passengers that spoke with familiar American accents. Behind me sat four New Yorkers that talked about their Wall Street jobs the entire six-hour journey to Siem Reap. Returning to Phnom Penh, I decided to take the bus chartered by Capitol Tours. The ticket price of $4 USD includes only your bus seat. No pastries, warm cola or fancy tour guide. I recognized only two other tourists on the bus that was nearly filled to capacity. The air conditioner also broke down soon after we departed our last rest stop. We got out while the driver tried to figure out what the problem was. I sat on the steps of a home in a Cham (Muslim) village while some stood under the shade of the trees. Both bus companies did have one thing in common. Their bus drivers were both speed demons that drove through the provinces believing that the pedestrians did not have the right of way.

buddha

The views from the bus are amazing. Endless rice fields, rural villages, giant carribou, even life-sized Buddha statues being carved by artisans. The bus ride along the Cambodian countryside is amazing.

 

bus view

This is the beautiful view from my seat on the bus.

Hike to Kbal Spean

November 15, 2007

kbal spean
So after breakfast we drove to Kulen Mountain and started our hike to Kbal Spean. It’s about a 40 minute hike up to an ancient river bed filled with linga carvings that date back to about the 11th to 13th century. The sacred water here irrigates the rice fields below. We stopped to eat our cupcakes and sweet banana rice cakes next to a waterfall.

 

kbal spean

It’s a beautiful forest trail along a peaceful river that symbolizes health and fertility.

 

theft

It’s not uncommon for thieves to destroy and steal artifacts from the temples in and around Angkor.  Where is Harrison Ford when you need him most?  Here at Kbal Spean, a thief recently stole the head of this carving. There isn’t enough money and man power to prevent looting and destruction of priceless Khmer heritage.

Broken Egg Cake

November 15, 2007

     

 

 

On our way to Kbal Spean we stopped for broken egg cakes. This local egg farm in Siem Reap uses their broken eggs to make cup cakes.  Click on the video to get a taste of these sweet Khmer treats.  

Breakfast

November 15, 2007

 

kbal breakfast

On my last day in Siem Reap, Vir planned a hike to Kbal Spean. My return bus to Phnom Penh departed from the Capitol Tours bus depot at 12:30 pm so we had to start extra early.

By 7:30 am we had already parked next to a little village stand along a red dirt road, slurping our hot soup and noodles for breakfast.

Vir warned me not to put the vegetables in the soup.  I asked, “But why do you get to to stir them into your bowl?! And anyway, I ate these same vegetables at your home on my first night here.”  He was quick to respond, “We cleaned and cooked the vegetables well in my home.   And my body is used to it and yours is not.”  I looked over at the beautifully chopped lotus stems and almost cried. =(

Alright, I didn’t add the raw lotus stems to my soup but I could not resist the beautiful yellow blossoms and red beans that everyone else was putting into their bowls. Yes, I easily succumbed to peer pressure.

Simmering Volcano

November 14, 2007

simmering volcano

All-you-can-cook-and-eat savory seafood and meat for about $3.50 USD per person. I had my last supper in Siem Reap near the river road at Queen’s BBQ. Perhaps tonight is THE night my innards will submit to food sickness? I kept thinking this as I stirred my raw shrimp up and down the volcano hill grill. To be safe, I over-cooked my shrimp. Terry had told me of her food experience the last time she visited Cambodia. She said that even the Imodium could not help her. (Actually she got sick from the raw vegetables so make sure your veggies are cooked!) My doc gave me Cipro prescription tablets just in case. I heard that getting sick from the food is inevitable so I kept preparing my mind for it. Thankfully, this never happened. Queen’s BBQ is a great choice for family style cooking and eating!  I think Vir called this method of cooking Phnom Pleung…which translates to “climbing the hill” since the little volcano grill resembled a tiny hill. This would represent our planned climbing of Kulen Mountain the following morning.

last supper in siem reap

L-R: Vir, Mal, Sam and Cham

Cham shared an ancient Khmer proverb with us:

Drink. Drink for drunk. Drink not drunk. Drink for what?

Here’s to your health in the new year! Cheers!!

 

Welcome to Phnom Krom

November 14, 2007

phnom krom

At sunset we visited Phnom Krom temple near the Tonle Sap lake in Siem Reap.  As we started to climb the stairs, Vir told me that Phnom Krom translates to the hill below.  ”But we’re climbing up so shouldn’t it be called the hill above?”  Vir explained that the sacred temple symbolizes heaven and everything else is considered below it, including the mountain top that it sits on.

monk

Greetings from Phnom Krom

 

phnom krom

Phnom Krom, built in the ninth century, is dedicated to Brahma, Shiva and Vishnu.

angkor book

This is one of my most cherished books ever. Vir noticed that I was fond of books because I was always checking out the used book stores. This was a gift from Vir who lives in Siem Reap. I asked him to sign it. What shall I write? Anything you want. On the inside over he wrote, “To remember your trip to the region of Angkor.”

Treasures of Angkor Wat

November 14, 2007

angkor mosaic

I never expected to explore Angkor Wat or any of the glorious temples with such authorities on Angkor architecture and history.  Vir, Sam, Cham and I walked down the corridors and studied countless bas-relief carvings, statues and ancient inscriptions along the walls of this inspiring sanctuary.

angkor mosaic

Vir walked on my right while Sam on my left. In my right ear, Vir talked about the carving of Yama, the god of death. In my left ear Sam talked about trivial facts, “Did you know that out of all the temples in Angkor this is the only temple that contains the the carving of a smiling Apsara dancer?”  or “Did you know that this temple holds the carving of a dog?”  I immediately wanted to know where the dog was located and he said it would be difficult to reach it since it was on the third level of the world’s largest temple.  Supposedly the steps would be too steep to climb.  If I made it all the way to Cambodia from California, then I could climb the stairs at Angkor.  Right? Of course!  And it was well worth the journey.  Found:  Khmer puppy, the most valuable treasure of Angkor.  In my eyes anyway.  Awkun to Cham for helping me find it.  To view this puppy look above in the last image of the mosaic.  It’s located to the left of the apsara dancer’s foot.

Cham would also like everyone to know that aside from the unique carvings of the smiling apsara and dog, Angkor Wat also holds the only nude apsaras in the region. Nude in the sense that they’re using their hands to cover themselves (see the last image below).  Thanks, Cham, for this valuable information.

angkor mosaic

Finding that Cambodian puppy was truly a treasure but there was much more sophisticated history that both enlightened and overwhelmed me.  Vir, Sam and Cham had so much information I wanted to absorb so I listened as they talked.  There would be no way for me to remember everything but that’s okay. I was in Angkor Wat heaven.

The Island of Angkor Wat

November 14, 2007

 

Angkor Wat

Angkor Wat

 

 

After visiting Wat Ta Prohm with Sam and Cham in the morning, we planned to meet at about 3 pm to see Angkor Wat, the largest temple in the world. This time Vir would be meeting us. So at about 3 pm Vir knocked at my door and to my surprise he didn’t really look that old as everyone had described him. No evident wrinkles upon first impression.

I got a little nervous as we approached Angkor Wat. What was waiting for us there? What had called me to make my pilgrimage to this holy temple in the first place?

Angkor Wat was built by King Suryavarman II during the period 1113-1150 AD.

Wat Ta Prohm

November 14, 2007

wat ta prohm

I visited Ta Prohm today with Sam and Cham. This temple is definitely one of my favorites. It was not as crowded as some of the earlier temples we visited such as Bayon. It could have been the time of day. Perhaps everyone went into town for lunch. While the birds sang above, we sat for a while under the shade of the massive trees and their tumor-like roots metastasizing every which way possible throughout this abandoned magical temple.

 

destruction

At Wat Ta Prohm, Cham explained that following King Jayavarman VII’s death in the 13th century, a lot of the temples were made to become Hindu and so a lot of the Buddhist images were destroyed. Later in the 14th century, Theravada Buddhism was established and remains until today.

Chum Reap Suor

November 14, 2007

chum reap suor

His parents are cooks in a restaurant where I ate breakfast. He greated guests and sat by the entrance.  Chum reap suor means hello.  Not to be confused with chum reap lear which means goodbye.

Dinner with Max

November 13, 2007

maxI was able to see my friend, Max, in Siem Reap where we met for dinner at In Touch, a Thai-Khmer restaurant.  We sat upstairs near a live rock band that had a pretty good size following.  I ordered fish amok in coconut curry and Max ordered steak.  The last time we had seen each other was two years ago on a small island in Portugal so it was so nice to catch up.   He lives in London but we still keep in touch.  Usually it’s Max writing to tell me that he just got back from Turkey or that he’s leaving on a jetplane for Belize.  He gets over eight weeks per year in vacation time like most Londoners.  

We walked around pub street and checked out another pub where we shared a large bottle of Angkor beer.  While at the pub, the local kids came around soliciting counterfeit Lonely Planet guide books for $5.  I couldn’t tell the difference. The photos looked so vivid and the binding seemed strong.  So Max bought one on Malaysia and I bought one on Cambodia.  

So glad we got to see each other.  Until the next journey and until we meet again, dear Max!

Bakong

November 13, 2007

bakong

Bakong is one of three temples in the Ruluos group.  A mountain temple built in 881 AD, remnants of the naga, or serpents, on both sides of the moat greet you upon arrival.  My mouth dropped at first sight of its grand architecture.  You probably can’t see that from this perspective. This is taken with a cheapy Vivtar ultra wide and slim 35mm film camera.  I love how the film gave this a timeless look.

 

The Landscape Around Angkor

November 13, 2007

   

 

 

 

Lots of development in Cambodia, especially in Siem Reap. Golf courses in the middle of ancient ruins. It’s sad to see.

Cambodia is still a magical place.  Along the road to Angkor, Sam introduced me to his friend, Cham.  He simply rode up alongside our moto and where Sam introduced us, “I would like you to meet my friend.  We work together.”  I would have extended my hand to say nice to meet you but I was afraid I’d lose my balance riding behind Sam. My right hand on Sam’s shoulder and even more important, my other hand holding the camera.

In this video, Cham discusses the Apsara Authority’s intention to protect at least 70-80% of Angkor’s landscape. I had to trim the video since all you could hear me say was “Wow!” or “Oh my God!” as we passed the breathtaking Angkor Wat and approached the mysterious gate at Angkor Thom.

Read an article that talks about: Cambodia for sale.

¡Viva Mexico!

November 13, 2007

taco

I couldn’t believe they had tacos (maybe they should’ve been called taco wraps?) in Cambodia. But then again, Siem Reap is a tourist town.

Bayon

November 13, 2007

bayon

The Bayon Temple was built in the late 12th – 13th century.  I wish I could have spent more time here.  Oh well, there’s always next time.

Sam

November 13, 2007

bridge crossing

Yesterday, on my first night in Siem Reap my heart sank as Sam picked me up from the bus station on his moto. He laughed as I screamed through traffic. This morning, as we made our way to Angkor Thom, both my hands that were so nervously holding on the day before, were now both on my camera, adjusting the setting and focus as we neared the breathtaking entrance to magnificent Angkor Thom, the last capital of the Angkor empire.

He accompanied me to Bayon, the first of many temples during my short stay in Siem Reap. The carved stone faces smiling down at us made up for the crowds. 

Sam reminded me to bargain for a discount at the Old Market in Siem Reap. I suppose I’m not used to paying so little for so much. For example I bought a small painting of Ta Prohm from an artist who was painting in the Ta Prohm temple complex. The cost was $10 and I didn’t bother to bargain because he’s an artist afterall. I also noticed that Sam double-checked the bill for the very in-expensive all-you-can-eat seafood and bbq dinner (which was about $3 U.S. dollars per person). He had the waitress deduct the bottle of water that we didn’t drink.

View from my bus seat

November 13, 2007

the wide divide between the poor and everyone else

I looked out my window as I departed Phnom Penh for Siem Reap and saw a Lexus on one side and a man without shoes on the other side.  

It Doesn’t Hurt to Ask

November 13, 2007

ketchup

Me: Do they have ketchup?

Dav: This is a noodle house.

Me: Well, it doesn’t hurt to ask.  I usually eat ketchup with my scrambled eggs.

Cambodia has some of the best noodle soups but they also have the yummiest French bread. And with this bread must come coffee and eggs.  Iced coffee and fresh-baked French bread.  Mmmmm.

My first Khmer meal

November 12, 2007

 

khmer dinner

Puthy and Terry’s family in Phnom Penh are wonderful hosts. This is their aunt and cousin, Sam.  I can only guess that Puthy and Terry told them of the Khmer food that i like to eat which is namyah (fish curry) and noodles. so they prepared that for lunch and then fried fish, cucumbers, watermelon and papaya for dinner.

I will end now because the rain just got heavier and the shopkeeper will be closing. Server is extra extra slow here so unable to upload photos to Flickr…Hope to keep in touch. Miss you all!

 

Helmets Come in Handy

November 12, 2007

moto

Me: Are moto accidents common?

Dav:  It’s more common in the city. Actually Jackie Chan came here to make a public service announcement about helmet use.

Me:  Do you ever use a helmet?

Dav: Only when the road is dusty.

The motorbike culture is alive in Cambodia just as it is in most Southeast Asian countries like Vietnam and Thailand.  You see entire families, including babies, riding on motos without helmets.  It’s just the way it is.  You’d think I would have gotten used to the sight of babies hanging from the backs of the motos but I was always fascinated by it.  I witnessed a moto accident in Siem Riep but it wasn’t too bad since they weren’t going too fast.  It was head-on and both drivers fell and got right back up.  One moto got it worse than the other and we didn’t stay around to see what happened.  What if a baby had been involved?  Hopefully the Jackie Chan PSA changes a few perspectives.

Dav

November 12, 2007

dav

This is Dav who met me at the Phnom Penh airport, along with Vir’s mother.  Dav plans to earn his Master’s degree abroad in New Zealand next year before returning to Cambodia to work. At Vir’s home, I was caught off-guard when he offered me fruit to eat and told me they were organic. I didn’t know Cambodians cared for such things. We discussed how teachers both in the U.S. and Cambodia are not compensated but he was right to say that teachers in the U.S. are still better off than their Cambodian counterparts. Teachers in Cambodia earn about $50 U.S. dollars per month. Renting a room is about the same so I’m not sure how they survive on such a low income.

In Phnom Penh, Dav and I walked about Wat Phnom and even took a boat cruise along the peaceful Tonle Sap River.  We cruised to the point where the Mekong meets the Tonle Sap.

Forever Changed

November 11, 2007

Landing in Phnom Penh, Cambodia's capital

My college friend, P, fled Cambodia in 1978 during Pol Pot’s revolution. She was eight years old. She lost her father during the Khmer Rouge genocide. Two men simply knocked on the door asking for her father.  ”We need his help. He’ll return tomorrow.”  He went with them and she never saw him again. Her husband also lost his father during the Pol Pot years between 1975-1979 when approximately 1.7 million people were killed (approximately 1/4 of the population at that time). Along with her mother and sister, she stayed in a refugee camp in Bataan, Philippines, before receiving a sponsorship to the United States. She told me about a time when she and her family bartered with the local mountain people in the Philippines. Her family would trade vegetables and rice for food and clothing. When she had to leave for the U.S, she remembered crying because she had formed strong bonds with everyone that lived along the mountain side.

When I told her I wanted to visit Cambodia, she insisted I contact her family who she had not seen since she left the country. Her eight-year old son was against my visit. He thought I would be turned into a “slave” or “captured by snakes.” These are the kinds of stories he had heard. While I was in Cambodia, he was always calling me on my cell phone. “Are you okay aunty?”

One day I hope that he and his parents will return to visit the beautiful country of Cambodia. I was and will be forever changed by my experience there.